After leaving Karamea we moved on to Granity (where there are very nice vege pies to be had). The weather had deteriorated so we free camped the night beside the Granity community centre, ready to do the Charming Creek Walkway next day. The morning dawned bright and clear and the two hour return walk was as charming as promised. Beautiful native bush, the history of coal mining to be observed in the remains of the old rail way which had to be blasted from sheer rock faces, a tunnel and swing bridge. That night we parked beside the Fox River with just one other bus. We had noticed a small marquee in the property next door and were informed that an event was planned that evening! A fire was lit and guests started to arrive. The party was revving up about 10pm so we thought we went over for a look. It was fun and we met all sorts of people there.

It is so long since I was last in Hokitika, it seems as if it must have been in a previous incarnation, which in a way it was. 1970 on my first honeymoon back when I knew it all! Things have changed since tourism found the place, that's for sure, but the history never does and overseas visitors have inspired councils and communities to make something of it. The history walk around Hokitika is interesting  although I was sad that the museum was closed due to earthquake strengthening. Men keen to dig for gold began arriving in the 1860s. Hokitika must have been a rip roaring place back then with over 70 pubs! The conditions were harsh and the few who found gold kept quiet about it but Hokitika must have been a colourful place. Eleanor Catton's 2013 Booker prize winning novel 'the Luminaries' was set here. These days Hokitika is a pleasant beachside town with wide streets, nice cafes and the usual fare of tourist shops. It is also characterised by exciting and changeable weather.

 Hokitika Gorge is 33 kilometers east of Hokitika. The 15 minute gorge track is well developed with board walks to a swing bridge. (I hate those things especially when others make them bounce), but the walk is truly rewarding. I could not have anticipated the intensity of the turquoise of the river water, apparently due to suspended glacier ground 'rock flour.' If you are thinking of going my advice is to get there early. We arrived about 11am and could barely find a park. We shared our walk with groups of Chinese, Germans and English people. All very nice I'm sure but peace and quiet are preferable. Yesterday we drove 25 kilometers south to Lake Mahinipua and the small township of Ross, where again, the gold rush brought hundreds of men and their families to these remote areas.