From Christchurch we headed to Hamner which was both a surprise and a treat. We did three of the many short alpine walks, including a hike up conical hill which affords supurb mountain views, before heading for the hot spa in the late afternoon. Last time I was there (probably 35 years back) the thermal spa was just steamy water in a very basic swimming pool. Today it is a wonderful complex with numerous pools of varying temperatures, plus aqua therapy options with waterfalls and powerful warm water jets for a massage. We went in the late afternoon, and after an hour's lolling about in the hot water, were completely stonkered for the evening.
Hanmer has an interesting history as a healing spa and the site of Queen Mary Hospital where shell shocked soldiers were sent to recuperate after WW1. A residential Alcohol and Drug service was based there for many years, but sadly funding ran out.
Stunning mountain views. I would love to see the alps snow covered in winter.
We departed Hanmer for Murchison on Tuesday 28 Feb only to find there was no room at the inn at the popular NZMCA park (post rally).
Forced to find an alternative, we headed 25 kilometers towards Nelson and ended up at a DOC camp, which, it turned out was used as a truck stop and was extremely noisy all night. Those truckies really don't care about travellers (pity the back packers in their sleeper cars). As it turned out, it was fortunate we left Hanmer when we did because the road was closed the next day due to fires, and we wouldn't have got through.
The Able Tasman
The popular Able Tasman walkway starts at Marahau. We were lucky with the weather and had the most wonderful day, doing one leg of the walk after being transported by water taxi to the first hut at Anchorage Bay. The half hour water taxi ride was an event in itself, and our driver Sean, showed us several points of interest on the way. Great value for $35. Sean told us that when he began working on the boats15 years ago there were only two taxies operating. Now there seems to be dozens criss-crossing the bay like mosquitoes. At low tide Marahau Bay is tidal sand flats, hopeless for launching boats, so we passengers boarded our water taxi while was on the boat trailer which was hooked up behind a tractor. The tractor took us out to deeper water. Dozens of similar tractors and boat tractors were lined up along the quay. Business is obviously booming with tourists from all around the world, predominantly Germany, UK and America. Of about twenty passengers on our boat we were the only Kiwis.
Split Apple Rock.
Views from the walk. Twelve Kilometers from Anchorage to Marahau.
Kayaking around the bays is a popular option.
Back over the hill to Motueka, where we had a great park up at the Shed. Motueka has grown from a one horse village to a very attractive arty town, complete with Warehouse, Mitre 10 and a couple of decent super markets since I was last there. A short drive took us to Kaiteriteri Beach, the prettiest horse she shaped beach imaginable. So entranced was I with the golden sand, and inviting water that I even had a swim. (It was hot).
Warren checking out the SUPs, stand up boards.Maybe next time.
Next morning we moved a short distance along the road to Ruby Bay, where we met Lynn and Micheal, both keen ukelele players. Lynn is especially accomplished and Warren is pretty good too. An unexpected and rather wonderful musical evening ensued.
Back to Richmond Racecourse for a couple of nights. Our friends Rikki and John were there again, as well as several others we have met on the road, so it was quite a social time.
We have done the full circle over three months in the South Island, from Nelson to the West Coast in December, across Haast Pass, Dunedin, Gore, Invercargill, Te Anau, Milford Sound and Mount Cook then back up the East Coast to Christchurch, then inland and back to Nelson. There is still much we haven't done with Kaikoura out of action, and places we missed due to bad weather. We will definitely be back. Our vehicle (still un-named but often referred to as 'the old girl'), is a bit battle worn, but she has done the job for us, in comfort. The great thing is that where ever we find ourselves, we are home.
Warren and I arrived in Picton last night and are booked on the Blue Bridge, Cook Straight Ferry tonight. It's been a marvelous trip. We both appreciate our wonderful little country so much more, and understand why the tourists are coming in their droves. We have to share a bit.
No more blogging for me for a while.
Lyndsay
