We've come full circle and back to where we started our South Island adventure three months ago.

From Christchurch we headed to Hamner which  was both a surprise and a treat. We did three of the many short alpine walks, including a hike up conical hill which affords supurb mountain views, before heading for the hot spa in the late afternoon. Last time I was there (probably 35 years back) the thermal spa was just steamy water in a very basic swimming pool. Today it is a wonderful complex with numerous pools of varying temperatures, plus aqua therapy options with waterfalls and powerful warm water jets for a massage. We went in the late afternoon, and after an hour's lolling about in the hot water, were completely stonkered for the evening.

Hanmer has an interesting history as a healing spa and the site of Queen Mary Hospital where shell shocked soldiers were sent to recuperate after WW1. A residential Alcohol and Drug service was based there for many years, but sadly funding ran out.

Stunning mountain views. I would love to see the alps snow covered in winter.

We departed Hanmer for Murchison on Tuesday 28 Feb only to find there was no room at the inn at the popular NZMCA park (post rally).

Forced to find an alternative, we headed 25 kilometers towards Nelson and ended up at a DOC camp, which, it turned out was used as a truck stop and was extremely noisy all night. Those truckies really don't care about travellers (pity the back packers in their sleeper cars). As it turned out, it was fortunate we left Hanmer when we did because the road was closed the next day due to fires, and we wouldn't have got through.

The Able Tasman

The popular  Able Tasman walkway starts at Marahau. We were lucky with the weather and had the most wonderful day, doing one leg of the walk after being transported by water taxi to the first hut at  Anchorage Bay. The half hour water taxi ride was an event in itself, and our driver Sean, showed us  several points of interest on the way. Great value for $35. Sean told us that when he began working on the boats15 years ago there were only two taxies operating. Now there seems to be dozens criss-crossing the bay like mosquitoes. At low tide Marahau Bay is tidal sand flats, hopeless for launching boats, so we passengers boarded our water taxi while was on the boat trailer which was hooked up behind a tractor. The tractor took us out to deeper water. Dozens of similar tractors and boat tractors were lined up along the quay. Business is obviously booming with tourists from all around the world, predominantly Germany, UK and America. Of about twenty passengers on our boat we were the only Kiwis.

Split Apple Rock.

Views from the walk. Twelve Kilometers from Anchorage to Marahau.

Warren braved the water, but I too hot to bother taking my boots off.

Kayaking around the bays is a popular option.

Back over the hill to Motueka, where we had a great park up at the Shed. Motueka has grown from a one horse village to a very attractive arty town, complete with Warehouse, Mitre 10 and a couple of decent super markets since I was last there. A short drive took us to Kaiteriteri Beach, the prettiest horse she shaped beach imaginable. So entranced was I with the golden sand, and inviting water that I even had a swim. (It was hot).

Warren checking out the SUPs, stand up boards.Maybe next time.

Next morning we moved a short distance along the road to Ruby Bay, where we met Lynn and Micheal, both keen ukelele players. Lynn is especially accomplished and Warren is pretty good too. An unexpected and rather wonderful musical evening ensued.

Back to Richmond Racecourse for a couple of nights. Our friends Rikki and John were there again, as well as several others we have met on the road, so it was quite a social time.

We have done the full circle over three months in the South Island, from Nelson to the West Coast in December, across Haast Pass, Dunedin, Gore, Invercargill, Te Anau, Milford Sound and Mount Cook then back up the East Coast to Christchurch, then inland and back to Nelson. There is still much we haven't done with Kaikoura out of  action, and places we missed due to bad weather. We will definitely be back. Our vehicle (still un-named but often referred to as 'the old girl'), is a bit battle worn, but she has done the job for us, in comfort. The great thing is that where ever we find ourselves, we are home.

Warren and I arrived in Picton last night and are booked on the Blue Bridge, Cook Straight Ferry tonight. It's been a marvelous trip. We both appreciate our wonderful little country so much more, and understand why the tourists are coming in their droves. We have to share a bit.

No more blogging for me for a while.

Lyndsay

Several days more than anticipated were spent in Ashburton where we went to the motorhome and caravan show, where many sellers have their buses and vans for sale. There were food and craft stalls too. Though we were not buying,the weather was stunning, it was a buzzy atmosphere, a chance fantasize about what kind of motor home we might like some day and also to meet other travellers.

Christchurch still looks like Christchurch to me in spite of all the damage and big gaps where buildings once were. Container shopping still operates in Cashel Street, though we noticed lots of building going on. I loved these bolted metal sculptures scattered

in between the containers. They depict ordinary people getting on with life in spite of earthquakes. They look so real.

Office workers eating their lunch beside the Avon.

The Cathedral looks exactly the same as it did when I was last here three years ago, except the grass is probably longer.


There is plenty of construction underway.

We met The Wizard having coffee in New Regent Street and Warren introduced himself. He seemed rather downcast as his spot in the square has been usurped by an over zealous Christian, but he was pleased to chat with us and still has plenty to say for himself.

We made the trip over the hill to Akaroa, site of many memories from childhood and adolescence for me. Sadly the place has been taken over by tourists to a large extent, but the bones don't change. Cruise liners anchor in the harbour every day, and passengers are ferried into the town. I dare say Akaroa depends on this influx for its survival.

We used to swim off Akaroa pier.

There are many examples of early housing in existence, some in disrepair but others are well preserved.

Looking out at earthquake damaged Sumner, taken from South Shore.

Sumner Beach, scene of many happy childhood days.

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Saturday night at Weedons NZMCA Park. The muso's got an airing and we all loved it.

Situated on the east coast of the South Island in North Otago, Oamaru is well worth a visit. With a population of 20,000 it is not a large town, but one with a significant history. Settled by Europeans in the mid 1800s Oamaru first provided services to gold prospectors, and thrived. Sheep farming, initially for the wool, began around the 1860s and later frozen lamb exports transformed the town into a prosperous settlement, rivalling San Francisco. Otago is known to be a very dry area, where farming is dependent on irrigation and there were no native trees growing. The new residents resorted to carving out the local limestone, known as Oamaru stone, to build their stores, banks, halls and even an opera house. In the late 1800s that prosperity melted away because other cities had deeper and more sheltered ports.Today the permanent material buildings erected in the town's hey day are a wonderful legacy, now restored to their former beauty. A Victorian and Edwardian precinct has been created to highlight the heritage. Greek architecture must have been in vogue at the time as the old Bank of New South Wales looks like an Athenian temple.

I was curious about the very wide streets here, and also in Invercargill and was told it was so that bullock teams could be turned around in a half circle. Doing a three point turn with animals is apparently not easy!
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The town now refers to itself as 'The Steam Punk Capital of New Zealand,' combining Victoriana with machinery which has created a fun atmosphere. There is a 'Steam Punk' museum which we didn't venture into, but there are lots of displays and steam punk 'sculptures' especially around the water front area.

A 'steam punk' train.

A steam driven crane.







On Sunday morning we enjoyed the local market where there was live music and all sorts of food to buy plus the veges we needed.

For our three nights in Oamaru we parked at Teschmakers, a former convent and rather posh boarding school. Joy and John now own the large property which is used as a wedding venue and conference centre. They very kindly allow us NZMCA campers to park there.

February 2017: Ohau Channel and Mount Cook National Park

Warren had a go at Salmon fishing at the Ohau Channel. Its just up stream from a fish farm so it does seem a bit of a cheat. In fact they are not easy to catch. He was unsuccessful so we bought some salmon at the fish farm shop!

Lake Pukaki, one of NZs larger lakes is an amazing turquoise blue due to sediment from the granite rock in the Southern Alps.

The DOC campsite at Mt Cook was quite busy due to it being Chinese New Year plus lots of Germans and French tourists. Apparently they get a great holiday allowance and do seem to love NZ. Lots of families, some with quite young children. Most were walking though some were on Dad's shoulders.

The views of Mount Cook on our three hour return walk up the Hooker Valley to the base of the Tasman Glacier were wonderful. DOC has done an excellent job of creating graveled walking tracks, with wooden steps and duck boarding in some places.

The glacier lake at the base of the mountain began from a sink hole in the 1970s and is now about five km across due to accelerated snow and ice melt. Yes global warming is at work here.

At the lookout point.

We were  unprepared for the beauty of this place. New Zealanders really don't need to travel overseas to see natures wonders. We have it all here, and the overseas tourists love it too.

Wazza gazing at the mountain Ed Hillary style.

We were totally absorbed for a couple of hours at the Conservation Department Alpine Center at Mt Cook Village. The displays showing mountaineering over the past one hundred years are fascinating and so beautifully presented with diaoramas to give you a real sense of what mountaineering is like, the immense power of the mountain environment and the extreme weather. Mountaineering equipment was pretty basic before the 1950s. The men went climbing in their woolen suits and there was little in the way of the hi tech gear and water proof clothing we take for granted today. There is a picture of one of the first women climbers on a glacier in 1890. She is wearing a skirt and blouse and carries a purse! All so formal.

Off again, this time heading for the east coast and Oamaru.

After a long drive from Invercargill, we made it to Te Anau, back in mountain territory. It is 40 years since I've been here and I can barely remember it, but like all of these places which were just a few streets back then, tourism has happened and small villages have become decent sized towns.

This picture is taken on the Kepler Track. Yes it is deceiving. We only did a little piece of it, an hour in, lunch by the lake, and an hour back but the Kepler is a loop track starting at the lake and going up to alpine scrub and rock. It takes several days to complete the whole thing. We loved walking along beside the lake and among beech forest. The leaves grow high up to catch the sun, creating a beautiful green canopy. Lots of moss too.



We shared a picnic table with a couple of women from Scotland who were enjoying a month in NZ. They commented about the lack of bird life. We too have noticed that there are few birds to be seen, just a few tom tits and bush robins. DOC has laid plenty of traps and I believe they drop 1080, but is it working?

The highlight of Te Anau for us was our trip to Milford Sound. The weather had been patchy but we decided to chance it, and take the easy option - the bus, along with a tour group of young people and 'Cowboy' our driver come entertainer. Fun in small doses. There were lots of photo stops along the way.

Homer Tunnel. 1.2 kilometers through granite.










Apparently it rains in Milford 2 days out of three, so we were lucky with a misty but fine enough day.

The boat trip is truly awesome. Moody mountains looming out of the mist and waterfalls spouting from the cliffs. We even saw a large pod of dolphins. The boats are taken right up to one of the biggest waterfalls and I got quite wet, but it was fun. Fish n chips for lunch were pretty good and we all slept on the way back to Te Anau.

Meeting up with a couple we were parked next to in Nelson back in December, was an unexpected treat. You can make good friends on the road, and NZ isn't so huge that your paths won't cross again.

We left Te Anau on Sunday and headed for Queenstown, about 150 kilometers. Once again I have been there before in a past life but I would not have recognised the place.

There isn't much parking for motorhomes around Queenstown, but we found a spot by the river, along with several small vans, parked there while they went to see the main event for Waitangi Weekend. We drifted off to sleep to the strains of Fat Freddie's Drop, which, fortunately, we quite liked, though we weren't so keen on being woken when our neighbours returned in the early hours to reshuffle their vans so they could fit another one or two in.  Our timing for Queenstown was not the best. The place was buzzing, a little too hyper for us. I didn't expect to like the place, but really, it is lovely town with amazing views out over the lake and those magnificent mountains. There are spectacular views wherever you look and I can see why its become so popular, and expensive. A few hours for a wander round were enough for us to get the gist of it and we were off. First stop Arrowtown. We drove through, but once again, our timing was off and the place was so crowded we didn't even park our rig. Arrowtown I do remember as the prettiest place in autumn with it huge English trees and lovely old buildings. We will be back for sure. We are back in Cromwell for a night or two before heading to Mt Cook.